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Scandinavian Summer 2024

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We didn’t take a big trip this summer, so I thought I would finally get around to reflecting on our trip to Scandinavia last summer. It’s amazing how long it can take to get around to things in the modern world we live in. It didn’t used to be this way, even just a few short years ago (at least for me).

I think my interest in Scandinavia started when I was in college when I saw a couple movies one night by a female Danish director – Susanne Bier. It was a double header at the cinema at DeBartolo Performing Arts Center at Notre DameIn a Better World and After the Wedding. I went by myself, and it was the most perfect movie night. I loved the movies, hearing the Danish language, and being transported to another place, that I then knew I wanted to visit. Around that same time, I saw the Swedish Dragon Tattoo trilogy over the course of a weekend, again by myself at the cinema at DeBartolo Performing Arts Center at Notre Dame, and again loved being transported through film, to Sweden this time, and I knew that I wanted to visit Sweden as well. The way that movies transport us and inspire us is what I love most about film.

Fast forward more than 10 years later, with a partner who shares an interest in Scandinavia, we took the trip. I’ll admit that as much as I love traveling and seeing new places, I don’t love planning trips. Thankfully my partner likes planning trips, and he loves adventure. We planned a two week trip to Denmark, Sweden, and Norway, with a long layover in Iceland, which allowed us to see Reykjavík for a day. It was our first big trip together, and our first time abroad together. We not only survived, but we loved every part of it.

Our first stop was Copenhagen in Denmark. Copenhagen felt clean and calm for a big city. The first thing we did was walk down Strøget, a pedestrian street full of shops. Taking in the Danish architecture was a great introduction to Copenhagen. Then we strolled around Nyhavn, which was less calm and was bustling with tourists and locals, at least so it seemed. The colorful architecture along the canal was vibrant and whimsical. Just across from Nyhavn, we loved Broens Street Food, a collection of food trucks where we got food and drinks, and people-watched the locals – lively and communal. Our first night in Copenhagen, we stumbled upon an Italian restaurant near Strøget, and it was one of our favorite meals on the whole trip. Especially fun because it was a completely unexpected, spontaneous find.

We went on a canal boat tour to enjoy the architecture from the water. Water is such a central part of life in Copenhagen with plenty of opportunities to swim in the canals, which my partner took advantage of at a couple different spots in the city. I am not a strong swimmer, so I watched from the concrete steps that act as a meeting place, and are perfect to enjoy a good book. Another central part of life in Copenhagen, getting around by bike, is something that I did take part in, although with a certain level of anxiety. So many bikes, such narrow bike lanes. It was fun to see the city by bike on the less crowded side streets, but it was challenging on the busy main streets. I may or may not have caused a small pile up in my hesitation and lack of experience on a bike in a big city, especially one where most people get around by bike. We enjoyed strolling through parks in Copenhagen, including the King’s Garden and Ørstedsparken. As far as museums go, we only went to one in Copenhagen – the Glyptotek, which has a beautiful salmon-colored facade and a courtyard garden in the center.

We got to see a friend who moved to Copenhagen for work. She took us to Tivoli Gardens, the amusement park in the middle of the city, and to the Meatpacking District for dinner one night, which is a hip newer area for restaurants and bars. We wandered through Freetown Christiania on our last night in Copenhagen. It was hard to tell if we were welcomed by the residents, or if we were intruding on their private lives. So we felt a bit conflicted about walking around their streets, but it was fun to see the street art and experience an overall different vibe from the rest of the city. I bought some authentic bright red Danish clogs, which are a favorite souvenir that I got on the trip. Of course, we tried a few varieties of smørrebrød while in Copenhagen, including pickled herring, one of the most traditional smørrebrøds. It wasn’t my favorite, but it paired very nicely with aquavit.

After a few days in Copenhagen, we took a train to Stockholm. We made the mistake of not getting our train tickets ahead of time, and the only seat options for the train at the time that we wanted were first class. But it was a nice treat. Pulling into Stockholm on the train was magical. The architecture, the domes, the spires, and the colors were all what I pictured Stockholm to be. Stockholm is bigger than Copenhagen, and it felt much more metropolitan with more global influence, while Copenhagen felt more purely Danish. Our hotel was across the street from a beautiful park that we enjoyed strolling through in the evenings to and from dinner. The first night we went to a traditional Swedish restaurant where I got Swedish meatballs. While good, the dish was heavier than I expected. We happened upon a Coriscan restaurant one night, Campoloro, which was such a delight. It was downstairs, tavernous, small, with wine bottles lining the walls. It was my first time having Corsican cuisine, and it was very flavorful. We learned that our waiter was a photographer and we bought a book of his photographs at the restaurant. A memorable souvenir with a story!

We went to the Fotografiska Museum, a fun contemporary museum set in an early 1900s building, which was an interesting juxtaposition. Gamla stan, Old Town, was very charming to meander through and admire the architecture on the narrow winding streets, but of course a bit touristy with souvenir boutiques. The best bars on the trip were in Stockholm – a speakeasy through a gorgeous art nouveau door, Lucy’s Flower Shop, Black Milk Gastro Bar, where we were the only ones and we got to know the bartender who gave us a private tour of the restaurant and kitchen before we left. We did some shopping in Stockholm – clothing stores, record stores, and bookstores. Shortly before our trip I got a Swedish perfume, which I love, so I made it a point to go to the original perfume shop in Stockholm – Stora Skuggan. Speaking of stores, we appreciated the Apoteks on every corner throughout the trip – so convenient and helpful. The green cross sign signaling an Apotek became a reassuring recurrence everywhere we went.

We went to several museums in Stockholm because they are conveniently located in Djurgården, which is an island of museums. Vasa Museum, the home of a a Viking warship, was engrossing. I’ve just never seen anything like it, and the size of it is hard to comprehend as you’re walking around it, looking at it from different levels trying to capture all of the details. The ship tragically sank on its maiden voyage and was resurrected and restored hundreds of years later. The bodies of a few of the people who died on the ship were in display cases, which was certainly eerie. Moving along the island of museums, we went to Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum, a fun contemporary art museum with a cool museum shop. Then we stopped for some wine and oysters along the water before taking a ferry over to Moderna Museet, another modern and contemporary art museum. As far as modern and contemporary art museums go, I preferred Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum to Moderna Museet. It was smaller, more intimate, and I found the architecture fascinating.

Onward to Norway! Our next destination on the trip was Oslo, and we took a train from Stockholm to Oslo. We arrived in Oslo around 10 pm. It was close to 11 pm by the time we got settled at the hotel and made our way to a pizza place downstairs, and it was still light out as we enjoyed our pizza outside. A perk of being close to the Arctic Circle! I was really looking forward to walking on the roof of the opera house in Oslo, but it was closed for an event while we were there. Surprise surprise, we went to more museums in Oslo – the National Museum, which was expansive and fabulous, with a nice restaurant on the ground floor, and a rooftop for views of the city. It was my favorite art museum on the trip. We also went to the Munch museum, dedicated to Edvard Munch, the Norwegian painter and printmaker. The Munch museum is in a cool high rise, with stunning views from the higher floors. Near the Munch museum we took a ferris wheel ride, and the views of the Oslofjord and the city were beautiful! I really liked the winding streets of Oslo. They made the city feel circular in a way. The architecture in Oslo felt like a good mix of older classical architecture and newer modern architecture. We walked around Bjørvika, a waterfront neighborhood full of new, modern architecture, which was, well, very Scandinavian – exactly what I picture when I think of modern Scandinavian architecture.

We made a stop by Vigeland Park, a park full of sculptures by Gustav Vigeland. There were a lot of tourists there, but it was worth the stop to see the sculptures and the gardens. We had a fun dining experience at Arakataka, where we did a tasting menu. Our waiter was so passionate about the local seasonal produce in the dishes, and about the restaurant industry, which added to the already delicious experience. One thing we noticed about both Stockholm and Oslo was the lively, almost rowdy, nightlife. It was fun to people-watch the locals going out to the clubs.

We spent the rest of the trip in Norway, on to the countryside after Oslo. We took the Bergen Line scenic train from Oslo to Bergen. It was 7 hours of just devastatingly beautiful views of the Norway’s vast natural landscape. It started out green and sunny, and progressed to overcast and snowy as the train rolled on. I couldn’t take my eyes off of the train window. I saw a moose out in the distance! We kept seeing moose crossing signs throughout Norway, hoping we would see one because our dog’s name is Moose, but sadly we never saw one again. Seeing the changes in terrain and weather as we rode along was one of the most spectacular things about the ride. Arriving in Bergen, it was a cute hilly and colorful town. The first thing we did was walk through the fish market along the water, and we had dinner at a touristy seafood place. It wasn’t the best meal of the trip, but we got the fish market experience. The next day we took the Fløibanen funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen overlooking the city. It was a quick cheap ride, and the view was beautiful! Once you get to the top you can simply enjoy the view or hike through trails. We enjoyed some ice cream while taking in the view, and I got to see some goats (my fav!). We also took the Ulriken643 cable car to the top of Bergen’s tallest mountains. This ride was a little rockier than the funicular, but the expansive views of Bergen and its surroundings were worth it. There’s a restaurant at the top, sheep meandering around with their loud bells, and hiking trails. We didn’t do a hike, but it was fun to see others set out on their treks and get smaller out in the distance as they got farther along in their journeys. The colorful wooden houses in Bryggen Wharf were fun to walk around, and we stumbled upon an artisan shop where I got a couple of artisan handmade Norwegian sweaters, one of my most treasured souvenirs from the trip. We had a fantastic meal in Bergen, my favorite on the trip, at Allmuen. I made a reservation for the wrong day, but they graciously took us anyway when we arrived, and thank god they did because the dishes were the best (especially the potatoes – I’m a sucker for potatoes!). There was some kind of literature / publishing party going on in the back of the restaurant, and eclectic art on the walls, which both added to the cosiness of the experience. They do a tasting menu, but we got there too late in the night to try it. I loved everything we had, so it worked out well anyway. Bergen did feel like a bit of tourist town, but it’s also a college town and it was fun to see that side of it with the university and the students.

Heading out of Bergen, we rented a car – an electric car! Our first. It was a Hyundai Ioniq and I loved it. It was an adventure finding electric charging stations and figuring out how to use them…we also found ourselves worried about running out of battery and looking for charging stations frequently, especially since we didn’t always know where we were going and when we would find the next charging station. We drove to Flåm, which was our next destination for a night. Our hotel, Flåmsbrygga Hotel, was right on the fjord and we had the most beautiful view of the fjord from our balcony. We had dinner at the hotel and tried the Viking meal with a beer pairing. After dinner we walked along the fjord, where people were sauna-ing & plunging into the fjord. We didn’t rent a floating sauna pod, but they looked like a lot of fun.

The next day we went on a fjord boat tour to get the fjord experience from the water. It was chilly even in August. It goes without saying that the views were incredible…and the waterfalls interspersed throughout the fjord added a dramatic element to the majestic mountains. We also took the Flåm Railway train ride, which had a vintage feel and was just a couple of hours. The views were nice, but I definitely enjoyed the scenic train ride from Oslo to Bergen much more! The Flåm train stops at a waterfall where a Norse forest spirit serenades you with a Norwegian folk song. It’s very kitschy, but a good opportunity to get out and take pictures of the waterfall.

After a short time in Flåm, we continued our journey with our Hyundai Ioniq rental car. We embarked on Sognefjellsvegen, the highest mountain pass in northern Europe. This drive was at the top of the list as a highlight of the trip. It was very windy as we made our way upward in elevation. It was a tad daunting at the start. But as we got going, the terrain along the route was just beyond…green and lush in some areas, red and rocky in others, and dark and snowy the farther along we got, each turn revealing a somehow even more spectacular vision than the last. I felt like I was on a different planet. We saw sheep along the way, with their classic bells, frolicking on the road. Something to watch out for as you’re driving! This incredible drive brought us to Lom, where we stayed at Røisheim Hotel, a rustic historic hotel nestled on the hillside dating back to 1885. We stayed in the old stables, which was a fully wooden structure, and we had the coolest wooden barrel tub in the bathroom. Very cozy! We had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, and we were notified that it was ready by a dinner bell that is rung everyday at dinnertime. The hotel had a scrumptious breakfast spread in the morning. All of the hotels that we stayed at in Scandinavia did actually – breakfast spreads for days.

The next day we attempted a hike behind Røisheim. It was certainly a steep incline up the mountain. At the end of the hike was a lake, which we were looking forward to seeing after the difficult hike, but sadly we didn’t make it to the top to complete the hike. It was just too hard for our amateur hiking experience. So we turned around after a valiant effort, but not before coming across some sheep along the trail! With their bells, of course. We heard them before we saw them. They graciously got off the trail and out of our way so that we could pass.

Back in the car, we went to the Lom Stave Church, the only stave church that we went to see on the trip. It was cool and dark and spooky. And then we were off to return our rental car. We drove through several tunnels on the way, some quite long. There were so many tunnels…and we drove along fjords, of course, which were just spectacular. After returning the car, we took a bus and a ferry, before making it to our next destination in Norway, Ålesund, which was the last on our Scandinavian tour.

Ålesund was a beautiful town, full of art nouveau architecture, one of my favorite design styles and periods. Our hotel, Hotel Brosundet, was in an art nouveau building on the water, and it featured a sauna right on the water to encourage sauna + cold plunge in the water. I sauna-ed, but I did not plunge. My partner did both, and he loves the cold plunge feeling. The hotel also had tubs outside that you could bubble bath in, but we didn’t get a chance to use them. They booked up fast. It was an upscale hotel. A little bit of a splurge, but worth it!

We went to the Art Nouveau Centre and KUBE museum, which was a beautiful representation of art nouveau art and decorative arts, as well as some contemporary art. We took the 418-step staircase up to Mount Aksla to see panoramic views of Ålesund, the Sunnmøre Alps, and the fjord. It was a trek up there, but doable, and you can take breaks on your way up if you need to. We went to a cool antique shop that was filled with treasures (we regret not buying anything, but there were so many things that we wanted – how to choose!), and we stopped at a brewery on the water next to the port. It was fun to watch all of the cruise ship travelers coming and going. We saw a lot of cruise ships at the various destinations throughout our trip. We went to a cute wine bar before dinner one night, greeted by a cat meandering in the street, where I had the best orange wine (my favorite). Then on to dinner at the hotel restaurant, which just like the hotel, had an upscale, cozy ambience. Since I was lucky to find a couple authentic Norwegian sweaters in Bergen, my partner was on a mission to find a Norwegian sweater in Ålesund, which he did!

Our Scandinavian tour sadly came to an end, and we flew from Ålesund to Copenhagen, and then started our way back home. We had a long layover in Reykjavík, so we stored our luggage in a locker at the airport and popped out of the airport on a short whirlwind tour of Reykjavík. On the bus from the airport to the center of Reykjavík, we got to see the most interesting volcanic terrain. Again, I felt like I was on a different planet. On our short tour in Reykjavík, we went to the Hallgrímskirkja church, which towered over us, but was also serene with its white / grey concrete and granite walls. We went to the Harpa Concert Hall on the water, a few shops where we got Icelandic socks and slippers, a moody perfume store, and tried some hot dogs. We squeezed in a seafood restaurant, Saegreifinn. We ordered at the counter and ate at a communal table, packed together next to our neighbors. Reykjavík was so windy. It gave windy a new meaning for me. The most wind I’ve ever experienced! It was time of rush back to the airport to catch our flight back to the U.S.

Gosh it’s been fun for me to revisit and relive this trip by writing about it…thank you for coming along and indulging me!

Paris, je t’aime

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How many times I’ve sat down to try to write this… It’s been on my mind more as of late since it’s been a year since the trip. My mom and I went to France for two weeks last Summer. We went for a family friend’s wedding in the Bretagne region on the northwestern coast. It was our first trip to Europe since 2014, and it was our first trip abroad since my dad died. I was in high school the last time we went to France, and my dad there that time. So it was a trip of both revisiting and remembering our last trip there, and a new kind of journey for my mom and I on our own without my dad. For my mom it was also a pilgrimage, since she was born in Paris and has lived in France at a few different points in her life. It was fun to see her excitement, visiting her old apartments and favorite spots when she was a local – like returning home.

I knew I loved Paris the first time I was there, and this trip certainly re-awakened that love. It was love at first sight for me, again. It made me think – the ability to fall in love with a city, no matter how many times you visit it and fall in love with it, always feels like the first time. Or at least this is how I imagine it. I’ll see if it rings true the next time I go to Paris!

We did all the sites the first time I was in Paris. But this time we wanted a more intimate, less touristy experience. It was nice to have the freedom to simply do what we wanted, rather than feel obliged to go to the must-sees. Wandering, perhaps feeling more like a local, but most certainly still a tourist. I suppose we don’t have the luxury of doing much wandering in our daily lives at home, or at least we just don’t make the time for it.

The beauty of Paris is overwhelming – beauty everywhere you look. I felt almost completely at home. I didn’t miss but a just couple of things about back home (although two very important things – my partner and my cat). If not for these two things, I would have stayed in a heartbeat. But I suppose everyone says this about traveling. And, of course, being on vacation.

A few highlights from our trip – a jewelry exhibit at L’Ecole des Arts Joailliers, morning pastries with mom, shopping at print stores, strolling around Jardin du Luxembourg, the Musee du Luxembourg, perusing a ceramics art fair (which we also went to the last time we were there 17 years ago!), walking around Le Marais at night, seeing friends, going to a French wedding, spending some time in Saint-Brieuc in Bretagne immersed in a French home (which wouldn’t be complete without a crepe-making station in the kitchen!), exploring the old Medieval towns of Dinan and Saint-Malo – Dinan, the prettiest Medieval town with steep cobblestone streets, colorful timber houses, and a charming meandering river – and Saint-Malo, a port city surrounded by an impressive wall (I loved seeing Saint-Malo represented historically in the new Netflix All the Light We Cannot See miniseries!), the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, clothes shopping to dress and feel like a Parisian, the Jacobus Vrel exhibition at the Fondation Custodia, and dinner our last night there – beef bourguignon at an outdoor café with the most kind waiter!

Until next time, Paris 🙂 I can’t wait to see you and feel alive in your embrace again!

Perfect Places

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Yes, this is in reference to Lorde’s “Perfect Places”, a song that I love so much. My perfect place is a small town in the Berkshires in Massachusetts where my mom grew up and where I lived for a short time before moving to Chicago. Although it was a short time, it was a perfect time.

The time has come for my family to say goodbye to my mother’s childhood home there. We have been extremely lucky to have it and to love it for so long, but it is now going to a new family. They are excited to be the next inhabitants and caretakers of the home, and I’m sure they will cherish it and create their own beautiful memories in it. How lucky are those who get to wake up and go to sleep in such a beautiful place every day.

Whenever I see a Massachusetts license plate, the simple white background with the letters in blue and numbers in red, my heart swells with both joy and grief – joy as I recall my season of life there, and grief for a place that I once called home, and a longing for that feeling of home that I haven’t quite found since.

I can’t completely describe what encapsulates my time there, just that it was my perfect place and my perfect time. I feel so very lucky to have had that time in that place. But it certainly makes saying goodbye so much harder.

I was becoming my person there. I felt brave, strong, and independent for the first time in my life, and maybe the only time really. I had a fire for life that year, a sense of freedom and lightness.

So often in life we’re thinking about what’s next and looking to the future. That year I truly enjoyed my present moment. I wasn’t looking forward and I wasn’t looking backward. Yes, I had fun researching graduate programs and submitting my applications, but I already knew that I wanted to go to grad school the following year before moving to Williamstown. So it was just a natural course of events of what was next.

Pure joy, pure comfort, pure love. I hope to feel this way about a place again someday.

So long, my perfect place.

Los Angeles

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My first trip to California was to the great sprawling metropolis of Los Angeles, and it was actually quite a bit as I had pictured it. I’ve heard people describe it as a series of suburbs connected by 5 lane highways, and we certainly used them to get around to various neighborhoods. It was interesting to try to guess how long it would take for us to get to each place; not that we had to do much guessing with GPS, but as a friend of ours there put it, everything is anywhere between 10 and 50 minutes away. We were pleasantly surprised that we didn’t have to deal with the nightmarish traffic that is attributed to L.A. Maybe it’s not as bad as they say, or maybe we just got lucky!

Our flight got in late, but our introduction to the city at a friend’s apartment in North Hollywood with a beautiful, tropical courtyard was already a nice change from the chilly midwest (our trip was in early May). The first thing I noticed the next morning as we started out with a driving tour through the Hollywood Hills neighborhood was the vegetation. I was so in love with the vegetation – all of the cacti, the variety of palm trees, combined with the sun and blue skies, is bound to raise anyone’s spirits. I also really enjoyed seeing the architecture of the houses, colorful stucco, and tile roofs. Driving up and down the winding roads of the Hollywood Hills was an amazing introduction to L.A. because for me it was the epitome of why we travel – to be transported and immersed into a world different from our own. The houses, their precarious driveways, and the views provided an invigorating look into the rich and famous culture of L.A. I felt transported into a movie!

Next up on the agenda was a hike at Griffith Park, and my were our Midwestern asses not prepared! By all accounts, it’s not a difficult hike, if you can even call it a hike. I’m sure the locals consider it a walk. But living in the Midwest, we are not used to that kind of terrain. It was a beautiful walk though! We stopped by the Griffith Observatory (hello La La Land fans!) and admired its Greek and Beaux-Arts architecture, while eyeing the Hollywood sign in the distance. And to think that I wanted to hike up to the Hollywood sign…nope!

The next day we drove to downtown L.A. to see the Walt Disney Concert Hall designed by Frank Gehry, the Cathedral of Our Lady of Angels, and The Broad art museum. The concert hall was a sight to behold, as the massive steel structures converged together and gleamed in the light. We couldn’t leave downtown before looking for the Cecil Hotel, which wasn’t as eerie as we had pictured after watching Crime Scene: The Vanishing at the Cecil Hotel on Netflix. We also didn’t want to leave downtown before at least poking our heads into skid row. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but it was definitely sad and shocking. I was surprised by the fact that there are businesses there that people who don’t live in skid row go to, and they just walk past all of the disorder and bleakness around them without blinking an eye – just a day in the neighborhood, conducting normal business. Our last stop in the area was the fashion district, with the seemingly endless rows of clothing stores and vendor tents set up on the sidewalks.

That afternoon we went to LACMA. I love art, so I always try to go to an art museum when I visit a new city. Your eyes are delighted before you even enter, as the architecture of the whole museum campus is enchanting. The bright red steel elements juxtaposed with the stone, and the palm trees hugging the museum’s facade on all sides is worth seeing, even if you don’t go inside. It reminded me of Centre Pompidou in Paris. With an outdoor restaurant and bar, and the iconic Urban Light display by Chris Burden (hello No Strings Attached fans!), it’s a multifaceted gem of a destination. We saw a wonderful exhibition on the artist Yoshitomo Nara, who paints captivating large-scale portraits.

We drove through Beverly Hills and, of course, played Weezer’s Beverly Hills. We walked down Rodeo Drive, stopped into some stores, and pretended that we could actually afford anything there. Rodeo Drive was as I had pictured, with beautiful and glamorous people everywhere, photoshoots taking place on various corners, and a collection of stores that screams capitalism and consumerism. But again, beautiful with the palm trees and fancy cars everywhere you look that most people only get to see in the movies.

We wanted to experience a California beach and the Pacific Ocean, so the next day we went to Santa Monica and Venice. The Santa Monica pier was packed! Walking along the boardwalk was a touristy experience and not something that I would necessarily do again. There was music, there were dogs, there was fair food, and people excitedly/nervously posing with snakes around their necks. We then set our sights on a calmer kind of vibe and walked along the Venice canals – so pretty and relaxing. Venice Beach was only a short walk away and we got to enjoy the water and the sand, and watched surfers do their thing in the Pacific Ocean.

Driving along the Pacific Coast Highway at sunset en route to Calabasas for my boyfriend’s birthday dinner was one of my favorite parts of the trip. It’s a gorgeous drive with sweeping views of the ocean, and it started to get more hilly and winding as we got closer to Calabasas. The restaurant was tucked away in the hills and had an upscale cabin feel with a decadent menu featuring wild game. It certainly did not disappoint!

Before our trip, my boyfriend and I did a lot of research on restaurants by category/cuisine and we watched City of Gold, the documentary about food critic Jonathan Gold. Inspired by Gold’s passion for food in L.A., we tried to go to some of the restaurants featured in the documentary. Great documentary!

Paris

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Seeing these ‘Then & Now’ pictures of Paris by Eugene Atget are striking, showing the parallel between the late 1800s/early 1900s and the past several months as the pandemic has taken hold of the world and forced people to stay at home. I have loved photography since I was in high school and took a few black & white dark room photography classes. I was also in the photography club that met on Fridays after school. I have been in awe of Atget’s photographs since my family took a trip to France for three weeks one summer when I was in high school. His photographs are eerie, majestic, and magical depictions of Paris, laced in fog and devoid of people. He achieved these dreamy scenes by getting up early and taking photographs before the streets swelled with Parisians and tourists.

The present day photos of Paris during the pandemic were taken by Mauricio Lima, who has followed in Atget’s footsteps and recreated the same scenes. The lesson learned from both Atget’s and Lima’s depictions of Paris is that people may need Paris, but Paris does not need people. It stands in its grandeur, with or without its inhabitants and visitors. I don’t quite know what to make of this, whether to be comforted or insulted, but I think we can all rest assured that the magic of Paris can endure and outlast adversity.

Time Out

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Man coming back from vacation is the WORST. It almost makes me wonder if it’s worth going on vacation because going back to your daily routine is just too hard. But I think it’s a reminder of how important it is to take time off and, if anything, we need to take more time off. What constitutes ample time off is relative to who you ask or where you live. In the U.S., if we compare our time off to most of Europe, it pales. Their standard seems to be 4-6+ weeks off, while we get 2 weeks off in the U.S (if that). But, if we compare the U.S. and Japan, a country that doesn’t seem to have much of a work/life balance at all, 2 weeks might sound like a luxury. In any case, I live in the U.S. and I wish I lived in Europe! If, for no other reason (which of course there are many), for their generous vacation time.

I went to Michigan for a week with my boyfriend over the summer and it was my first week off of work in a year and a half. I realize that complaining about not having enough time off is a luxury these days when I should simply be grateful to have a job. And I am VERY grateful to have a job (for the moment at least). But I think we still need to uphold the importance of time off for one’s mental, emotional, and physical well-being, if one’s job is labor-intensive.

The week in Michigan was very much needed, and fun and relaxing and all of the things that a vacation should be. We went to Traverse City, Beaver Island, and Mackinac Island. We drove to Traverse City and took ferries to the two islands. It felt quite safe, as everyone wore masks and all of the places we went to provided hand sanitizer. Each place was different and we stopped at some unexpected places along the way, which were lovely surprises!

The setting of Traverse City is beautiful, on a bay of Lake Michigan. It’s a great place if you like water activities – sailing, kayaking, etc., and maybe an even better place if you like wine! There are several vineyards and wineries where you can sample the fruits of the land. We also stumbled upon a cider place called Sutton Bay Ciders that has an incredible view of the bay! Back on track, we went to a winery called Mawby, which specializes in sparkling wine and is nestled in a rolling vineyard. Next stop was Hop Lot, a brewery in a forest-like setting. The beer and pretzel we got were delicious. We explored Leland, a small historic fishing town, and got some amazing smoked whitefish at Carlson’s Fishery.

Back in Traverse City, we grabbed dinner at The Little Fleet, which is a parking lot full of food trucks and a bar that serves very tasty cocktails. The food trucks offer a variety of good eats and it was a fun spot to people watch. There were also lots of dogs all getting up close and personal to get to know each other. We checked out Grand Traverse Commons, which is an old mental hospital that has been converted into shops, restaurants, and apartments. Trattoria Stella was a real treat – Italian fine dining in a wine cellar in the basement of the former mental hospital, with a high quality menu and excellent service.

If you like biking, kayaking, and beer, Kayak, Bike, & Brew is the activity for you! It’s a four hour tour to four breweries and you get to each one by bike and kayak. You get some exercise, try some beers, and meet people on the tour. It’s a fun time!

We stayed at a goat farm Air B&B one night just outside of Traverse City, which was my favorite place that we stayed at. It’s no secret to those who know me that I LOVE goats and that I dream of having a little goat farm of my own someday. So it was really cool to get to spend some time with the goats and run around in the pasture with them. I even got up at the crack of dawn in the morning to watch the milking! The guest suite in the farmhouse was modern, minimal, and clearly Scandinavian-inspired. It was perfect – the kind of place I’d like to call home in my future. The farm also had a couple cows, chickens, and vegetables. Oh, and we were greeted by amazing goat cheese, crackers and jam.

Beaver Island was an experience. It was quite remote, which we knew before going, but I think it was even more remote than we had anticipated. There are a few main roads that are paved and lit, but most of the island is made up of a forest with dirt roads throughout that are not lit at all. Driving on these dirt roads at night felt like we were driving towards our death in a scary movie. We had a very interesting and hospitable Air B&B host who gave us a tour of the island and told us about the island’s history, including its spiritual nature. He even made us breakfast one morning! I don’t know if I would have taken notice of the island’s spiritual presence had he not told us about it, but there clearly seems to be an energy of sorts there. I am not a spiritual person so I can’t say much about it, but there was a special feeling on the island. Our host owns a meadow, Tara’s Meadow, which, after discovering it, is what drew him to stay on the island after visiting out of curiosity for its history and spiritual nature.

The island’s shores are very pretty and serene. The water is crystal clear! The beaches are rocky though. There was plenty of social distancing on the beaches – two to five other people besides us at most. Having a beautiful beach to ourselves was amazing. We made our way from one beach to another around the island’s perimeter, and each one was more beautiful than the last. We went on a couple hikes, and visited Protar’s Home and tomb. Feodor Protar was an Estonian immigrant who became a healer on the island and is highly revered there even now long after his death.  The temperature was a little chilly, despite it being the first week of August, but our Air B&B host told us that it was unusual for it to be on the chillier side at that time of year. So unfortunately the water was cold, but the Beaver Island locals didn’t seem bothered by it. We watched the most beautiful sunset at Donegal Bay, and it was just so colorful and picturesque.

The ferry ride back to the mainland is a little over two hours, but it’s a nice and comfortable ferry. Charlevoix is home base for the ferry, which is a cute town on the harbor, if a bit touristy.

The charms of Mackinac Island stand the test of time. I had been there once before as a kid with my family, and it was mostly as I remembered it. If you haven’t been, or don’t know about it, there are no motorized vehicles on the island. So you have to get around on foot, bike, or horse & carriage! There is something refreshing and endearing about seeing everyone ride around on bicycles and ‘parking’ them to go into shops. I will say that seeing the horses truck along with a carriage full of people or luggage made me sad, but hopefully they are strong enough to handle it. We rented bikes and rode all the way around the island (which is 8 miles), as well as on smaller trails throughout the island. One thing I noticed this time that I hadn’t noticed when I was there the first time was the variety of the island’s landscape and vegetation. I didn’t realize how wooded and hilly it is! It’s beautiful. I wish we would have had more time to explore the island and take some hikes because the trails looked really dreamy. We visited a couple historic forts and Arch Rock.

We stayed at a bed & breakfast that apparently is quite haunted. My boyfriend likes scary movies and stories, so we bought a book about the hauntings of Mackinac Island. It turns out that our B&B is one of the most haunted on the island! Just my luck…I don’t like spooky stories and I couldn’t sleep. We played a really fun and beautiful game of mini golf right on the water at sunset with glow in the dark golf balls. The island was crowded with tourists, but not as much as it normally is. The crowds can be unpleasant, so I’m glad that it wasn’t to full capacity.

On our last day we stopped at Sleeping Bear Dunes as we were leaving northern Michigan. It was a rainy day, but we still hiked up to Pyramid Point through a beautiful forest full of birch trees (my favorite). Seeing them in all of their glory made me so happy. The rain and the fog made it all the more magical. The view of the lake from Pyramid Point is also quite stunning, with the vastness of Lake Michigan sprawling out before you. We were really lucky with the weather all week and the last day of the trip was our only rainy day.

Please remind yourself of how important it is to take time off, and unplug and recharge and adventure! I know that I’ll need to continue to remind myself of this.

My Collection of Plants

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I remember feeling indifferent a few years ago when I noticed that some of my friends began collecting plants for their apartments and actually seemed to enjoy taking care of them. Like actually felt a sense of joy in the company of their new friends and prided themselves on their accomplishment as they watched them grow. Well, over the past year or so I’ve gotten a taste of the plant bug. These are just a few of my plants, as not all of them are photogenic. But we can work on that together. Not only do I find pleasure in taking care of my plants – watering them, deadheading them, repotting them when necessary, turning them to even out their sun exposure, etc. – looking at them and feeling them around me simply makes me happy. It must be that air purification getting to me.

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I’m very grateful that my cat (who I picked up off the street, not knowing anything about him) doesn’t bother my plants. He’s never tried to eat any of them, so I don’t have to worry about bringing a toxic plant into the apartment (hallelujah because so many beautiful plants are toxic to cats). Instead of being taunted by my plants, he enjoys sunbathing and napping in his favorite cat tree, complete with a view of much larger plants outside.

My sweet alley cat, Ollie

People matching art

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A friend showed this to me recently and I am so fascinated by it. People matching artwork. I’m an art lover and I go to museums every chance I get, but I’ve never noticed visitors matching the art on the walls. I mean what are the chances? Some of these pairings are more spot on than others, but I’m so impressed by the photographer’s commitment and patience for such a project. Stefan Draschan is the photographer behind these spottings and he has other similar series on people touching artwork, people sleeping in museums, couples matching, etc. All are humorous, but I think the people matching artwork is just perfection. I can’t decide which pairing I like best, but the colors in this one are so striking. I was surprised to find out that Draschan only spends a couple hours in each museum where he captures these moments. But he does go frequently – every few days. He thinks there’s something subconscious that draws people to their matching works of art and that it’s not purely coincidental. We do seem to be attracted to things that mirror us in a way and that provide an opportunity for us to reflect on ourselves. I think a work of art can certainly be that looking glass. Draschan’s love for going to museums and observing people isn’t so much a love as it is necessary, “I really need art…It fills me”, a sentiment that I can certainly relate to.

 

 

Colorado dreamin’

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Although I live in a big city now, I grew up in a small city and have always had an affinity for the outdoors, nature, and that country feeling. This is what drew me to live in a small town in the Berkshires in Massachusetts, and it’s something I long for now that I’m in the big city.

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I went to Colorado a few weeks ago for a bachelorette party and to visit a friend who moved there from Chicago a year ago. We went on a couple hikes at Garden of Gods in Colorado Springs and Rocky Mountain National Park in Estes Park. The magnitude of the Rocky Mountains is hard to grasp, and while beautiful and majestic, the rockiness and brown tone makes them feel a bit cold. They don’t, at least for me, elicit a warm welcoming feeling. They’re big and intimidating, and I tend to prefer a greener aesthetic. It makes me realize that what I like about the Berkshires is that because they are smaller they feel cozier, more approachable, and they envelope you with a kind of protective embrace. The distinct change of seasons in the northeast takes the hills on a journey from beautiful shades of red, orange, and yellow in the fall, to green in the spring and summer, and snow-covered in the winter. But enough about the Berkshires…I don’t mean to take away from the Rocky Mountains, which are magnificent in their own right.

Garden of Gods was interesting because of the beautiful and bizarre rock formations that are a bright burnt orange/red color. It’s fascinating to think about how these rocks formed over time and what gave them the color they so gracefully wear. Prior to going to Colorado I didn’t know that it had some desert characteristics, and not having been to a desert before I was quite in awe of the colors.

Our hike was about five and a half miles long, and while not difficult, we were all feeling the altitude. Although relieved that we didn’t have to fight off any predators, I was a little bit disappointed that the only wildlife we saw included a lizard and a rabbit.

The hike at Rocky Mountain National Park felt much more intimate than the one at Garden of Gods because there were hardly any people on the trail that we chose, which was both peaceful and a bit scary because my mind wandered to the bears that might be lurking around and the fact that it would probably take a while for anyone to find us. Little did I know, the Rocky Mountains are only home to black bears, not brown bears, although there are mountain lions (which didn’t even cross my mind, thankfully!). This hike was only a couple miles long, and while I had adjusted to the altitude by this point, even though we were quite a bit higher than at Garden of the Gods (11,000 feet!), it was a bit more up and down and the trail was much more wooded and felt more secluded. The trail brought us to a beautiful and unexpected valley with a creek, offering the perfect spot for our picnic lunches. The only wildlife spotted on this hike was some kind of small beaver in the creek and it was cute! But I was constantly scared of seeing a bear! The drive to the trail was spectacular on a one way dirt road. We were committed and there was no going back.

My short time in Colorado doing a couple hikes has definitely given me the hiking bug. It made me sad to think that I hardly did any hiking when I lived in the Berkshires, especially since there were various trails a 10-15 minute drive from my house; whereas the Rocky Mountain National Park was an hour and half drive from Denver. Until the Berkshires and I meet again… 🙂

Charleston, SC

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On our recent trip to Savannah, GA, we also went to Charleston, SC for a couple days. Initially I was equally excited to see both Charleston and Savannah, but I loved Savannah so much that I was sad to leave it to go to Charleston. So I think that alone clouded my impression of Charleston a bit because I compared it to Savannah rather than approaching it with an open mind.The first thing we did there was walk down King Street, which was perhaps not the best introduction because it felt very commercial and touristy. Our hotel was also not in the best location and it was a bit of a hike to the older more historic part of the city.

Drayton Hall

On our way into Charleston we stopped at Drayton Hall located along the Ashley River. We had an excellent tour guide who was well-versed in researched plantation history, and it was interesting to see it more of a raw shape than other houses we visited on our trip, which have been more heavily restored. The goal at Drayton Hall is geared towards preservation rather than restoration; that is, preserving it the way it was found, not restoring it to a certain historical time period. The grounds at Drayton Hall are beautiful and littered with big old oak trees, one of my favorite things about the south. We walked down to the river and tried to imagine what it was for the Draytons to take in that view everyday when they lived there in the 1700’s. Oddly enough there is an armadillo problem there and they had traps set out around the house. I have never seen an armadillo and I certainly wasn’t eager to see one in the wild while we were there! Apparently they try to burrow into the house at night. We wanted to go to Magnolia Plantation, which is nearby, but didn’t have enough time.

Calhoun Mansion 

In Charleston we saw several house museums, as we did in Savannah. First up was Calhoun Mansion, which is featured in the movie adaption of Nicholas Sparks‘s The Notebook. It serves as Allie’s parents’ home. It is now a private residence after having been condemned and heavily restored, and it’s filled with exotic antiques from all over the world. The owner of the house lives on the top floor and can apparently be seen walking around town with his two whippets (I think?). Our tour guide was very knowledgeable and poised, and after the tour we found out that she’s a only college student! Very impressive.

Walking around all the narrow streets lined with gorgeous houses in the historic district along Battery Park was everything I pictured Charleston to be. And seeing them decorated for the holidays was magical. My mom and I definitely got some inspiration for decorating our house for Christmas since my parents live in an older Georgian style home. Along our walks we saw a flock of guinea fowl waltzing down someone’s driveway (beautiful birds by the way), a couple in a horse-drawn carriage who had just gotten engaged, and beautiful historic house after historic house. We did go past Rainbow Row, but it was different than I had pictured it. It’s a somewhat congested area, and obviously very touristy, but for some reason I thought it was closer to the water.

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View from Battery Park 

Rainbow Row

Nathaniel Russell House

We also toured the Nathaniel Russell House, which was perhaps my favorite, the Aiken-Rhett House, and the Edmondston-Alston House (another favorite). The Nathaniel Russell House has a beautiful staircase and music room, and once again, our tour guide was extremely knowledgeable. She spoke in depth about the restoration of the master bedroom, down to the colors, drapery, and bedding. The Aiken-Rhett House is a self-guided tour, which was informative and it was kind of nice to go through the house at your own pace, but I prefer having a tour guide who can interject little anecdotes here and there. This one really highlights the slave quarters, which was definitely hard to swallow. It is also preserved rather than restored, so it felt a bit like walking through a ruin, which was a cool experience. The Edmondston-Alston House is right on the water and has a beautiful  multi-level side porch, which is a very common architectural feature in Charleston. Our tour guide at this one was a very sweet woman who is a transplant to Charleston from the northeast. Not a bad way to spend your retirement…

Aiken-Rhett House

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Edmondston-Alston House

Finding a place to eat dinner that wasn’t $50 for an entree and a two hour wait was a challenge. Apparently the holidays are one of the busiest times for Charleston in terms of tourism, and places were expensive and booked. We did have the best meal of the whole trip in Charleston though, at a place called Tradd’s on Bay Street. It offers a modern American cuisine and I had an amazing gnocchi dish with lobster as my entree. We also got a liver pate to start with and ended with some kind of interesting fruity pastry dessert. The atmosphere felt southern and bougie and I loved it.

Tradd’s

Of course we walked through the City Market in search of sweetgrass baskets, a tradition that has been passed down through generations. There are so many artisans selling their sweetgrass creations and they’re all very sweet. You get to watch them as they weave the baskets, and it’s hard to choose who to buy from! My parents bought a basket and I bought a floral cross (I am not religious but it was so cute I couldn’t resist). It’s also signed by the artisan. There were kids selling sweetgrass flowers on the street, and we bought some of those. Sweet sweet kids. One thing that struck me about Charleston was how foggy it was! It was dramatic at night and we saw several ghost tours around the city around 10 PM one night.

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City Market

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We also spent a morning in Beaufort, SC, which is a super cute little historic town. The waterfront area downtown has a nice walkway with oyster shells embedded in the sidewalk! I was so taken aback because it was the first time I had seen something like that. There are also oyster shells stacked up against the seawall, which was a cool sight. There are some restaurants and cafes along this walkway as well. We ate lunch outside in January! Definitely a first for me…We walked around a neighborhood that had a lot of cute bungalows and we walked through a church cemetery where a mass had just gotten out. It was nice to see locals leaving church. It seems like a tight-knit community. We also walked through a military cemetery that had beautiful uniform grey tombstones with crosses and they were each decked with a wreath for the holidays.

Beaufort 

After Beaufort we went to Hilton Head, SC and we drove for what felt like forever to get to the coast to see the ocean. I pictured Hilton Head as a small quaint island, but it’s actually very suburban and exclusive with gated communities. We definitely weren’t crazy about it, but it was worth the drive once we got to see the ocean. It is spectacular! And it just goes on as far as you can see. Standing on a beach looking out onto the ocean in January was also a first for me…and something I would definitely like to repeat.

Hilton Head